Autumn in New York

A few weeks ago, I took the train from D.C. up to NYC. I have to say that I was impressed with Amtrak. The train on the way there was on time and on the way back, when our train was delayed, we were bumped automatically to an Acela that got us back to D.C. earlier than we had planned.

The purpose of the trip really was just to see New York in the fall and to visit a multitude of friends. This time, rather than hit the big sites, we spent more time in neighborhoods, particularly in Brooklyn.

If you are ever in Brookyn, I highly suggest going to Junior’s. Before your order comes out, this solid Brooklyn establishment brings complimentary rolls, cornbread, pickles and beets to the table.

Speaking of food, we also went to the Peanut Butter and Co. Which, I admit, I heard about on the Travel Channel. I had a peanut butter-honey-bacon-bananna sandwich…Don’t look at me that way, it was really good!

We also walked extensively through Central Park with friends, went to Mass in Old St. Patrick’s and ate some more – New York pizza really could not be neglected.

I now know why I put off posting about New York – I have a craving for one of those bacon-peanut butter sandwiches…

A Friend from College and I in Central Park

Southern Road Trip!

Every year, I try to take the week of Thanksgiving off. After all, you can’t really beat only having to take three vacation days for ten days of free time. (since I get Thursday and Friday off). For the last two years I have gone to Europe – two years ago to London and one year ago to Paris, Venice and Rome. This year, however, due to funds and lack of planning, we are going to go road tripping!

The goal is to make it to both Charleston and Savannah, neither of which I’ve been to. Still trying to make the decision whether to get back on Thanksgiving to join my family or to make the trip longer. The following is the itinerary I’m looking at.

If you’ve been to these places, suggest places to stay or to eat! Particularly to eat…we are looking for some good BBQ and some feasting, it will be Thanksgiving week after all.

Day 1. Duck, NC: About a five hour drive from D.C., I grew up going to the beach here. The idea is to get here in late morning and spend the whole day and a night NOT eating seafood as I dislike it. I happen to know there is a good foot-long hot dog place though…

Day 2: Charleston: I have to admit my thoughts about Charleston and Savannah right now equal Gone With the Wind…thoughts?

Day 3: Savannah: See Above

Day 4: Asheville: I’m excited about this stop. It seems to be a place that anyone who has been there loves, but still isn’t overly crowded

Day 5: I want to stop at a gourmet restaurant called Town Hall in Chilowie…check out the link and you’ll see why, but then I’ll need to make it somewhere to spend the night, I’m thinking Roanoke.

So, these are the planning stages. I just needed to write it all down.

Mermaids, Fairytales, Denmark and Growing Up

Attempting to get back into posting, this is something I wrote back in Spring of 2008 when I went to Denmark.

When I graduated from kindergarten, I walked through the doorway of my house with cap in hand and received the best present- the newly released Disney version of the Little Mermaid.  I loved her because of her red hair (similar to mine), her spirit of adventure, her longing for something more.  As I look back, I realize that is the only thing I remember from my first graduation. I don’t remember the ceremony, my parents’ faces, or my classmates; I only remember receiving a fairy tale.
Now, over fifteen years later, I find myself walking at a brisk pace through Copenhagen, the bright capital of Denmark.  I am a woman on a peculiar mission- I am attempting to find the Little Mermaid.  Denmark appealed to me at once- built on the sea with a number of canals, full of stately history, hearty food, and reserved but friendly people. Yet through the muddle of brightly colored houses, vendors selling Tuborg beer on the street, and the smell of fresh waffles wafting in the air, I choose to chase a fairy tale.  All the guide books say that the famous statue of the Little Mermaid in Copenhagen doesn’t live up to expectations.  That did not stop me from looking for myself.
After living in Europe for a year, I have come to despise buses and I have started to delight in walking  wherever I want to go. On my way to the brink of the city, I thought about how I have never stopped loving the Little Mermaid. Maybe because she is the first fairy-tale I embraced, or maybe because I relate to her.  Perhaps because of the magic inherent in these spun tales, the Mermaid always seemed the same age as myself. Her love of singing, her restlessness, and her undying desire for something more than the ordinary mirrors my own path in life.

Iwalked through a seventeenth century fort and came to a top of a hill, I could see people walking towards the wharfs- the crowds seemed to indicate that I was near my destination.  The walk had been strenuous, but well worth it.  I could not believe I had come so far, not only today, but all the way to Denmark. When I was younger I would not have believed there would be a day where I was living in Italy and traveling by myself through foreign cultures. When others looked at my life they saw many accomplishments. Yet I knew that like Hans Christensen Andersen’s mermaid who danced so gracefully but every step felt like knives, that adventures are challenges.  I strolled towards this monument of child’s fancy confidently and with the knowledge of the many struggles and hurdles that it took me to get to this point.
The wistful mermaid stared off into the sea just as I knew she would.  After all these years she still looked a bit sad, there was still longing in her heart.  I sat there for an hour as tourists came and went, took their photographs and moved on with their trip.  The craftsmanship of the statue was exquisite, but it was the girl’s story which spoke to me once more.  I had crossed an ocean, learned many things, desired many more- I found a kinship in the eyes of this girl who wanted love and a human soul.  It was then that I realized, in a land far away, that we never forget  fairytales, they help us grow.

Eating Local: Berkeley Springs, WV

I don’t normally write about restaurants for an entire post. However, because Panorama Peak was the reason that we took a detour on our way to Helvetia, I’ll make an exception. Plus, just looking at these pictures makes me hungry…

This is the Panorama for which the Restaurant is named

The restaurant serves completely organic, local food and sits on a spot where you can see Pennsylvania, Maryland and Virginia.

Sangria, with french fruit and some sort of kick

I couldn’t resist starting with sangria, though some of the other options like the “cider cocktail” looked quite appealing as well.

Lamb Meatballs with Feta and Dill Dip

Butternut Squash Soup

I’ll tell you how good this place was. I don’t really eat lamb and I ate the lamb meatballs and they were really good, especially when accompanied by dill and feta dip.  I also had never tried cream based butternut squash soup which was made that day.  Yesterday, I went out and hunted some down in Trader Joe’s…though its sure to disappoint. All of this great food was highlighted by a funky decor that made you want to have an odd Do it Yourself sort of wedding there.

Veggie Burger

My vegetarian sister declared the burger above one of the best veggie burger she has ever had. I tried it and I almost converted to being a veggie lover. Oh, and finally, we split a dessert and it was exquisite-

Ahhhhhhhhhhhhhh

Anyways, I’ll be back to this place. I hope you’re hungry now.

Helvetia- Switzerland in the USA

This weekend, my sister Sarah and I drove 10.5 hours in two days in order to reach a small town in the middle of nowhere West Virginia. When I say nowhere, I mean it. We didn’t have phone reception for the last three hours of our trip yesterday and the first three hours of our trip today.  We were headed to a small town called Helvetia- twenty miles from the nearest real intersection.  Helvetia was settled by the Swiss in the mid 19th century and has remained largely isolated since.  I had originally saw this small town on a food show and had plotted a trip ever since then. My high expectations were not disappointed. Our lodgings  were lovely, the Swiss influenced food was amazing, the people were friendly, and the stillness was refreshing.

We stayed at the Beekeeper Inn. Pretty much the only place to stay, we were charmed by this house with four bedrooms and a view of the gushing creek. When we arrived we had to ask at the restaurant what to do, but they just gave us a key and sent us on over.

The Beekeeper Inn, Helvetia

The view from my bedroom window

One highlight was the Hutte restaurant where we had dinner Saturday night and breakfast on Sunday (breakfast was included with our stay at the Beekeeper).  In Helvetia they make their own cheese and use it in cuisine such as the cheese soup below. Saturday evening I had soup with a thickly cut roast beef sandwich on freshly made bread along with a frosty local microbrew.  Our breakfast kept us full for about the whole voyage back. We were given fresh orange juice, two kinds of cake, pfeffernusse (a peppered Swiss cookie to accompany coffee), porridge, toast, fresh fruit, eggs and very tasty ham. We had a feeling we were expected to eat it all- and we weren’t complaining!

Hutte Restaurant: an irreplaceable experience

Cheese Soup, made with local 'Swiss' cheese

While worlds away, Helvetia reminded me of my time on Inis Boffin (an island off the West Coast of Ireland). Both places are small, with a strong sense of community and identity. Helvetia may not have a gas station, an ATM or except anything but cash, but it has other aspects that will draw me back someday.  The man taking down the Swiss flag at dusk over a bridge, the restaurant owner forgetting she was speaking in German instead of English, the church bell and the brook forming pleasant music outside of the Inn window. It may have taken a lot of twisting roads to get there, but I’m glad that it is isolated. I just hope when I come back, they’ll be some hearty food and a quiet village waiting for me.

The "City Square" of Helvetia

The National Zoo

I haven’t felt very inspired to post lately, but I did want to share some of my favorite photos from the National Zoo. Some great aspects of the zoo are that its free, its Metro accessible and its a great way to fit a walk in!

Last weekend, the animals and the visitors seemed very happy to finally have some sunshine. Here are a couple photos of creatures basking in the sun.

An Otter Taking a Nap

A RED Panda!

Squinting in the Sunlight

A New Pet?

Planning for Helvetia

I’m very proud to report that I’ve officially made my reservation for the Beekeeper Inn in Helvetia, WV for the end of the March. As you might remember from my planning post, Helvetia is a town settled by the Swiss in the nineteenth century that has remained largely isolated.

Sarah and I plan to hit up some hot springs before we land in Helvetia then spend some time enjoying their town and their food before leaving on Sunday to do some hiking in nearby national parks.

I wonder how Swiss their food really is? I could really go for some fondue…

Guest Author: Sarah Forst on Israel

As my siblings and I all pursue different things in life, I’m glad that we share a love of travel. Sarah, an anthropology and art double major at University of Delaware, went to Costa Rica with me last this summer. This winter, she had an opportunity to go to Israel- a country that is definitely on my list.  Read what she has to share on Israel and some of the highlights of group travel. Also check out her blog, Teacup Adventure, which covers artsy creations and a myriad of other things.

How many people did you travel with? Did you find you came away with new friends or craving a bit of alone time?

All in all, with forty college students, eight soldiers, one security guard, two hillel staff members, one tour educator, and one bus driver, our group came to fifty three people.  As a fairly introverted person, I expected to be overwhelmed by the group, but I actually made a lot of really good friends.  That being said, there were a few times I wanted to be by myself, but often the trip provided enough flexibility for me to have that time.

Since you had experienced guides and connections, could you tell us about anything in particular you saw that you wouldn’t have seen on your own?

There was a huge amount I wouldn’t have been able to see by myself.  For one thing, we did so many things in day, that I don’t think it would have even occurred to me to plan things so tightly.  For another, many of the experiences wouldn’t have been possible without a sizeable group.  For example, we stayed at a Bedouin encampment, and I would imagine you couldn’t do that on your own, since we had a huge tent and special programs set up for us.  The most important  benefit of traveling with a group, however, was the presence of our eight soldiers.  The soldiers traveled with us not for protection purposes (they didn’t even carry their guns), but as a sort of cultural exchange.  We never would have been able to get to know Israelis of our own age as well as we were able to get to know the soldiers, since they were traveling, sleeping, eating, and going out with us.  Getting to know them was invaluable to me and greatly changed my perceptions of the country.

Were there moments that you wish you could have gone off alone, but couldn’t?

There were moments I simply wished we had more time places, but for the most part I found that the trip was well planned and that our boundaries were reasonable.  The only time I really felt restrained was in Jerusalem, when I wanted to see the Christian and Muslim sites, but of course we only toured the Jewish ones.

Finally, what is one thing readers shouldn’t miss if they go to Israel?

The Beit Guvrin Caves! These are a group of over 5,000 caves made over 2,000 years ago by their former Jewish inhabitants.  We had the opportunity to take part in an archaeological dig  and also to spelunk through unexcavated caves.  This was definitely my favorite part of the trip, which is saying something considering we also floated in the dead sea, climbed a mountain, rode camels, and celebrated Shabbat in Jerusalem!

Just Waking Up…

Coffee Tour, Santa Elena, Costa Rica

I know I haven’t been writing lately…work has been busy. Evidenced by the fact that I am at a Photoshop workshop early on a Saturday morning. Its a good thing I have my coffee (Medium Roast, French Pressed). Is isn’t quite the vision inducing wonderfulness of fresh coffee in Costa Rica, but it does the trick.

Guest Post: Home in Arizona

For my own benefit and for that of readers, I hope to feature guest bloggers every once in awhile. Their perspectives on places I’ve never been (for the most part) will surely give me more reason to travel to those destinations. First up is a good friend of mine whom I traveled with all over Europe. Now he is living in Texas, but is giving us his take on his home state of Arizona, specifically in the Phoenix area. For more of Aaron’s writing, check out the Guild Review, where he is a prominent contributor.

Pilgrim’s Guide (PG):  What do visitors put on the top of their list when they visit Phoenix?

Phoenix, AZ

Aaron (A): Phoenix is probably known first and foremost for the desert climate: it’s a blessing in the winter and a curse in the summer.  Phoenix is built in the Salt River Valley, and so is surrounded by mountains, with a few even in the middle of town.  The desert’s not for everyone, but it has a kind of austere beauty I find quite striking.  Perhaps it was that beauty which drew Frank Lloyd Wright to Arizona, were he set up his winter school at Taliesin West, which has become an attraction itself.

PG: As a native, what is it that you think is unique in Arizona?

A: I definitely like hiking, and there are plenty of places to do it.  The nation’s largest municipal park happens to be in Phoenix, covering the South Mountain range.  I think I enjoy getting out into the desert because it reminds you just how much Phoenix has been carved out of the natural setting.  In a certain sense, man was never meant to live here, and yet, 1,000 years ago the Hohokam Indians dug canals, built homes and established a civilization.  Reborn from their ashes, we have now done the same.  I find a sense of triumph about it, but also deep wonder, knowing that we are – and always will be – foreigners in this strange land.

PG: I always have to ask about the food – what is it that can’t be missed?

A:  Folks from more stable demographics often fail to realize that few people are actually from Arizona; in my case, my parents came from Kansas and Nebraska. As a result, the best places to eat are probably not “Arizonan” food (though Indian fry bread is definitely worth trying if you find a chance).  Honey Bear’s BBQ, with one location in Tempe and two in Phoenix, is a Tennessee-style barbecue of nearly legendary fame in the East Valley, and rightly so.  In addition, north Tempe and the areas around Arizona State University are the most ethnically diverse in the state, and the eateries reflect it: Haji-Baba is a great example of the good, if not quite exquisite, ethnic food that can be found at reasonable prices.

St. Mary's Basilica, Phoenix

PG: Are there any historic churches, missions, landmarks etc..?

A: Arizona is historically Catholic, due to the Spanish and then Mexican presence, and Catholics continue to make up about a third of the population.  The Franciscans built St. Mary’s Basilica in Phoenix and the All Saint’s Catholic Newman Center (originally also named St. Mary’s) in Tempe, both a little more than a century old; the chapel at Brophy College Preparatory, built by the Jesuits in 1928, is also worth seeing.  Also, the Mormons have a strong role in the history of state, founding the city of Mesa, Tempe’s neighbor to the east; Mesa is home to a major Mormon temple, the seventh in operation, built in 1927.

PG: Finally, how long would you recommend that someone make a trip to AZ? Should they tie it in to seeing other states nearby?

A: Arizona, like other states out west, is quite large, so it takes several hours just to get from Phoenix to the edge of the state.  If one likes road trips, Arizona may be visited on the way to or from California.  However, it is probably more deserving of a visit all its own, with side trips to the Grand Canyon up north, Montezuma’s Castle (and the undervisited Montezuma’s Well!) a little closer to Phoenix or Mission San Xavier del Bac in the south.