Hiking in Abruzzo, Italy

Getting ready for our hike

Being caught in the Snowpocalypse here in D.C. has gotten me to thinking of times when I could actually be outside hiking. One gem of a hiking experience took place two years ago when a couple of us rented a car in Rome and drove west to the Abruzzo region of Italy.   Known for its beauty and wildlife, it did not disappoint.

There are a series of towns throughout the National Park of Abruzzo. We simply picked one and started making phone calls about available rooms. Talk about simplicity- we found a family that rented a couple of rooms on their third floor. They only had one available and gladly pulled in extra beds so that there were five of us splitting the 60 euro a night fee.

After we had secured water and the basics of Italian picnic fair (ciabatta bread, different kinds of great

One of the great hiking views

cheeses and sausage), we set out on our trek. We hiked for several hours through both fields and forests as the altitude caused it to get colder and colder. The foilage was astounding and we couldn’t help but stop to turn around and see the views. Kara even saw a bear!  Finally, we stopped in a clearing and dug into our picnic, improvising since we forgot to bring a knife to cut the cheese and sausage.

Our first evening I would go back and repeat often if I could. The little town we stayed in reminded me of something out of a fairly tale. Small wooden houses, friendly shopkeepers and lots of interesting corners. After a hearty dinner with pasta al cinghiale (pasta with boar’s meat) we wandered through town and came upon a shop where locals were enjoying samples of their sweets. They gladly included us and I can still taste the ‘fruits of the forest’ cordial and the almond biscotti.

A mysterious (magical?) horse we ran into on the way back...

We found Mass at an old monastery that seemed as if it had plenty stories of its own to tell. When we piled into the car the next day, I knew I might not return to this beautiful, slightly magical place. I will, however, seek out these kinds of adventures whenever I get a chance!

Cary Street

Active Theatre on Cary Street (Credit: Stacy Rausch)

A week later and I am still eagerly awaiting my next opportunity to return to Cary Street in Richmond.  Cary Street is the artsy, laid back district that I wish my neighborhood had, but doesn’t.  We took a long walk into the area and went down the main drag, which I believe is about eight blocks. Immediately, we were struck by the bright colors and non-chain shops and restaurants. It was just hard to choose where to go into.

I miss coffee shops in D.C. Call it what you like, but Starbucks doesn’t really count. On Cary Street, however, we found several places that drew you in off the street with the aroma of fresh brews. We also saw a number of tempting food options. For dinner, we settled on Coppola’s, an Italian style sandwich shop that you might find in NY, but I was happy to find there.  Fresh ingredients and wine available by the glass all for the price you’d get Happy Hour appetizers in D.C.—I’m coming back.

Photo Credit: Stacy Rausch

The stores would easily afford you a day of wandering. We happened upon a vintage shop with everything from tweed suitcoasts to funky shoes to old nickel and dime novels. On a recommendation of a friend we visited the World of Mirth- a toy store with such interesting novelties it kept us easily entertained. We also saw a variety of antique and household good stores.

Funky, entertaining- it kind of sounds good for a Saturday night date. After all, Richmond is only two hours away.

Richmond and the Tobacco Worms

Capitol Building, Richmond

Sometimes I suprise myself. Only two hours away and I had never visited Richmond, the state capital.  Honestly, it never really interested me. Yesterday, however, I used the day off to visit with some friends. We thoroughly enjoyed our day and I think we’ll be back soon. Tomorrow I’ll write about my favorite part of the town, but today I’ll just share a couple of things to see and do.

1. The State Capitol: Unlike the national capitol, you can walk right in and get a free tour (though you do have to enter from underground). The building was designed by Thomas Jefferson and is reportedly the first Roman temple style building in the United States. The building is beautiful, the tour informative and it gave us a glimpse into important national, southern and confederate history.
2. The Museum of the Confederacy: This museum, while simple, gave us a great insight not only into the battles of the Civil War, but also into the lives of the soliders. I enjoyed seeing some of the art produced by soliders, the games they played in camp and the letters they wrote home. Did you know that each state had nicknames in the war? Virginians were fondly called the Tobacco Worms.
3. Cathedral of the Sacred Heart: Another suprising element of the city- the Catholic cathedral was beautiful, a good example of Italian Renaissance style! I particularly liked the green colored roof and the interesting stained glass. Apparently tours are available, but it wasn’t open when we were there.
4. Lunch in a Bathtub!: Highly recommended, all the food is good at the Strawberry Street Cafe, but the most distinct part of the restaurant is that their very comprehensive salad bar is presented in a bathtub. Quirky and local, this restaurant served very fresh food for prices that were a steal by D.C. standards.

This certainly isn’t all there is to see in Richmond. My next post will be about Cary Street, which had me

Cathedral, Richmond

tempted to pack my bags and move down there. I definitely intend to visit again. Perhaps see the Edgar Allan Poe Museum and Belle Island. Anyone else have suggestions?

Travel Destinations 2010

Denver!

Now that I’ve gotten my New Years Resolutions started (getting finances in order and starting a detox- I’m on Day 5)I’ve started thinking about my travel goals. Apparently, I’ve become a bit of  a joke amongst my Dutch classmates who are using their new language skills to ask why I’m always taking trips.  I think my answer is that travel allows me to balance out my 9-5 with something that fulfills my desire to constantly learn and see new things.

So, with only 13 vacations day, this is what I’m thinking for the year.

1. (Denver):  Okay, so this already happened (see last post). The object of this trip was to visit my close friend Elizabeth, but the rodeo on the side was certainly a good idea!
2. February: West Palm Beach, Florida: My former roommate is getting married before heading to Australia. So, I’m going for a long weekend. I just haven’t determined whether to spend time on the beach or take a nostalgic trip to Disney World.
3. Sometime in Spring: Helvetia, WV: Okay, this is probably one of my strangest goals. Helvetia is a town that was settled by the Swiss in 1869 and has very little outside influence. I discovered it on a Food show first (they were cooking a whole deer with bacon and butter inside), but I am drawn to this anomaly only five hours from me!
4. April, Jazz Fest, New Orleans: Yes, I went to New Orleans last year, but between having a good friend down there, being excited about seeing Simon and Garfunkel and Darius Rucker in one day, and being addicted to the
   

   Pat O'Brien's, New Orleans: A piano bar I'm definitely revisiting

   food down there, its likely I’ll go back.

5. July, Machu Pichu, Peru: Okay, you knew it was coming- my first foreign excursion of the year. My sister and I are planning to fly to Cuzco and then hike to Machu Pichu. I also have a priest classmate from Rome who lives near Cuzco, so we are looking forward to meeting up with him and seeing his parish. I’m looking forward to getting odd stares as the American and the Peruvian converse in Italian, but unless my Spanish rapidly improves that will probably be the common language.
6. Summer, Oregon: With Erik’s family to visit, we are hoping to head out there sometime during the summer. This trip I’d like to do more hiking and perhaps spend more time in Boise since thats where we fly into.
7. Fall Europe Trip? This one is still very open. Contemplating biking through Belgium and part of France—use a little of that Dutch we’ve been learning I suppose.

So thats where I’m at. Do you have any great travel suggestions? I’m always looking for day and weekend trips to make from D.C. In fact, I’ll be wandering off somewhere on this holiday Monday.  Also, if you’ve been to Peru, any travel tips would be great!

Denver: God Bless America

Living in the United States recently, I sometimes feel that it is unacceptable to love my country. Everyone has opinions about the government, the war, the economy etc… I certainly believe in having our voice. However, during my weekend in Denver, it was impressive to see people who could critique the goverment while still expressing strong patriotism.

I had the fortunate timing to be in Denver during the beginning of the National Western Stock Show.  At the beginning of the rodeo, a light show reminded me not of how far we’ve come technologically, but of the triumphant presence of the ‘old’ West. People who deride that America has any culture should see the rodeo! It is not just a circus type of performance, but rather actual competitions of strength and daring. Between the barrel racing, bull riding, and the steer riding, I was reminded that America has a strong heritage. Perhaps a little bit of an imposter with my new white cowgirl hat and a draft of Coors Light, I still felt that the American West is not just a tale for children- but actually alive and well.

Reportedly the biggest rodeo in the West, I not only watched the competitions, but also had the opportunity to see Angus Steer, llamas and huge horses! I raised animals myself in 4-H for awhile, but I felt real admiration for those people who have made ranching their career.

Society so often makes me want to take an apathetic approach to our country, but after a short visit to Denver I can say with renewed energy, “God Bless America.”

Air Tran: Appreciating Low Cost Efficiency

I promise to post about my trip to Denver soon, but I am waiting on several photographs. In the meantime, I just wanted to say that I think Airtran Airways is underappreciated (no, unfortunately they pay me nothing for liking them).

When I was a student at the University of Dallas, I flew them frequently from Baltimore (BWI) to Dallas (DFW), often through Atlanta. It is certainly true that they aren’t a luxury airline. The seats are a bit small and you never get more than the requisite pretzels and soda. However, they are very very reasonable. They are one of the few airlines that I will check instead of going immediately to Orbitz, Expedia etc…

I also haven’t experienced them being late. I think they must build in some extra time so that they can still be on time even if they are running late. Thats fine with me. I flew from Reagan (DCA) through Milwaukee to Denver with little hitches, despite the snowy weather in Milwaukee.

Don’t get me started on why I think its useless to waste money on airlines. Its enough to say I’d rather spend my money on a vacation instead of the plane as long as I’m safe, somewhat comfortable and get there on time.

1,000 Places To See Before You Die: Book Review

Getting ready to board a flight to yet another travel destination

Along with traveling, another passion of mine is reading. I suspect, in fact, that my drive to travel came from many years of devouring books about people in places different from my own. Not suprisingly, I also like to read travel books. Sometimes I read them for the practical purposes of preparing a trip, but sometimes I do it just for fun.

Sitting on my bookshelf in my office is 1,000 Places to See Before You Die: A Traveler’s Life List. If you are looking for a practical travel book that tells you the ins and outs of a place then this book is not for you. In fact, many of Patricia Schultz’s suggestions for 1,000 places to visit would not make my list. Mostly that is because not only could I not afford to stay some of the places she stays, I actually prefer simpler accomodations and travel plans.

That said, the reason it sits in my office is so that I can browse through it when I need a break or a moment to escape. Her short vibrant descriptions of places make it easy to flip open the book and find a whole new experience waiting for me. In fact, I just opened it to the Vered Hagalil. With little effort I discover that this is a horse ranch in Galilee, Israel. I may  never visit that particular ranch, but the possibility of doing so sates my wanderlust for a moment.

I also find it helpful when I’m making plans for future trips. For instance, I have been contemplating visiting South America with my sister. I opened this compilation of places across the globe and found the South America section and started reading (by the way, I think we decided on Peru, I’ll keep you updated).

Should you use this as your Bible for travel? I don’t think so. This is the author’s list, not yours. However, it certainly is a good list to get you dreaming of your next adventure.

A Tribute to Gnocchi

For some reason I am inordinately hungry today, which naturally makes me think of Italy.  During this past trip, Iagain experienced that delightful combination of eating well, but not feeling stuffed since I walked intensely throughout the day. While many meals stand in my mind nostalgically, I should tell you about Castel Gandolfo.

Food experts will tell you that in Italy the farther away you get from the city/tourist treks, the more authentic food you will find. There are a number of trattorias I love, but during my last trip it was the memory of a frequented restaurant in Castel Gandolfo, the summer residence of the Pope, that made me follow my nose out of the city.

Since my last visit, the small trattoria in this hill top town had redecorated to give itself a more chic look, yet the food remained exactly the same. We started with Fior di Zucca – fried zucchini puffs with sardines in it. I do not like seafood, but this small taste of fresh sardine in the middle of a perfectly fried appetizer went down well. We also ordered a bottle of Montepulciano wine- though if you ever go here, be sure to order Villetri Reserva (Its a local wine and you won’t regret it!).

Gnocchi Speck e Radicchio

The crowning moment came when my meal arrived. A perfectly cooked gnocchi with a cream based sauce with radishes and bacon. One bite brought me back to the many other meals I had here, when this mouth melting sauce had made the troubles of the day seem trivial. Gnocchi speck e radicchio epitomizes what I love about Italian food. The ingredients are fresh, the recipes are superb and the taste is vibrant.

Simplicity is part of what makes Italian food so spectacular. Italians know food and they know it well.  Good restaurants may only offer four options, but each one is a culinary experience in itself. After the meal we wandered through the piazza and the stone streets down to a place that overlooks Albano. We uncorked some champagne, took in the landscape and I was satisfied that I spent the day pursuing a plate of gnocchi.

Lake Albano

The Do’s and Don’ts of Guidebooks

On my latest excursion I bought Rick Steve’s guide to Paris and took it with me for the trip (though I left it in Rome to make room in my luggage for pesto!).  As an experienced traveler, and a fan of independent travel, you might wonder why I chose to buy a guidebook.

Its simple really. I bring guidebooks along as experienced friends. When used correctly, guidebooks can facilitate your trip without it losing any sense of being a unique experience. They don’t lead my trip, but merely assist me in making decisions by giving travel tips. When you buy a guidebook:

The Guidebook told me about Notre Dame, but not about the roses behind it!

Do:

1. Read it Ahead of Time!: 80% of the pleasure I get out of a guidebook is before my trip. Anticipation adds so much to a trip.
2. Planning: While you can never completely plan everywhere you will go on a trip, a guidebook gives you the ‘most sees’ so you can decide for yourself. When I looked at the list for Paris, I realized that I did not want to miss the Louvre, but could do without paying to go to Saint Chapelle this time around.
3. Transportation, Transportation, Transportation!: I really think this is when a guidebook becomes indispensable. It saves a lot of stress when you can read ahead of time how to get from the airport into the city, what the best kind of transportation pass is to buy and how much to pay for a taxi.
4. Language Tips: If you aren’t familiar with the language (and don’t have time to take a course) the quick guide to useful phrases in the back of the book can certainly help you along.

Don’ts

1. Limit Yourself to the Accomodation/Restaurant Choices: While Guidebooks can provide good suggestions, there often better deals if you look for people renting out appartments. Also, staying in a hotel pushed in a guidebook may mean that you are only staying with other Americans (which may or may suit you). Finally, a guidebook can not cover all the good restaurants in a city! Be creative and willing to step in a restaurant that appeals to you.
2. Glue the Book to your Hand: While it is a good reference, remember that your book does not have to be your guide everywhere you go! You will see more and appreciate more if you have to figure out a couple things for yourself. Consult the tips in the book and then go ahead and call that cab, order that dessert, or ask directions. Its part of traveling!
3. Feel Discouraged if You Don’t Cover Everything: You won’t cover everything in a guidebook and a guidebook won’t cover everything in your trip. Remember, its your trip, not Rick Steves, Lonely Planet’s or anyone else’s.

I’ve found another helpful aid is the chats about guidebooks on the web. For example, you can find the message board for Rick Steve’s here.

Don’t forget to pursue your own interests: art, music, sports…whatever it may be.

Any suggestions for other great guidebooks?

Crossroads

Looking back at my Why Travel statement, I realize that the focus of my blog isn’t quite what I set it out to be. This is not necessarily a bad thing, but with the year ending out, I am contemplating tightening my focus and perhaps even changing the name. So far, elements about my blog goals that occur to me are:

1. Accessibility: A myth for many people is that traveling is impossible for them. They don’t have the money, the time, the language skills, the companions etc… One of my goals is to provide my tips on accessible travel.
2. The travel disease: With me, travel is a desire to always see and learn more. This is something that I want to share and discuss with others. What places do I want to go? Where would a trip be possible?
3. Independent Travel: While tours have their place, I find that independent travel helps open our eyes more and ultimately we get more out of the experience.
4. Resources: I’d like to share and comment on articles, books etc… that I have found useful in planning my travels.

So, I am thinking about changing my vision and possibly my name. Any suggestions?